Woke up in Astoria and soaked in the view of the Columbia River (and a huge tanker coming in under the bridge) before going to breakfast then departing. First thing on the agenda was to visit some locations in the cult 80s film, The Goonies. We made our way up to the Flavel House Museum, seen in the movie as the kids are riding by after learning that their home is to be destroyed. Right next door to that is the old Clatsop county jail, the jail that features prominently in the opening scene with the jail break of Jake Fratelli by his mother and brother.
Clatsop County Jail, used in filming The Goonies
Flavel House museum, used in filming The Goonies
The jail is no longer in use (and wasn’t when the film was made in 1984) but has just recently been made into a “Oregon Film Museum.” Honestly there isn’t much to it. They have a part about the history of the jail which is interesting (the jail was the site of the only two hangings in Clatsop County), a jail cell packed with vintage Goonies memorabilia (but behind glass so hard to photograph), Jake’s cell with a replica note and (I’m assuming here) a replica of the pipe used, cutouts of all of the main characters, a reel showing other films filmed in Oregon, and a room where visitors can film their own scenes (and later have them mailed to them). And a gift shop, of course. It was OK, I guess, just not much to it for the admission price. We all did enjoy doing some scenes, though — Addison did one from Point Break, Addison and I did one from The Shining (“Here’s Johnny!”), and again Addison and I did a couple from The Goonies. Michelle and Genetta wanted to stay behind the cameras. Let’s just say that nobody in Holywood has to fear for their jobs from me!
Oregon Film Museum's "hot set" for recording scenes
Next we drove to the east end of town and stopped in front of the John Jacob Astor Elementary School, centrally featured in Kindergarten Cop. And, yes, I said “IT’S NOT A TUM-AH!” And, no, I’m not under any illusion that I’m the first to say that in front of that school.
John Jacob Astor Elementary School, used in filming Kindergarten Cop
A short distance away was the Goonies house. It has changed a bit from the movie but not too much. Also the sign in front welcoming Goonies but asking them to walk to the house rather than drive was a major hint we were in the right place. Addison and I walked up to the house, took some pictures, and went back down the gravel drive to Michelle and Genetta waiting in the car (they didn’t want to see it, bah humbug!). Really neat to see a piece of movie history. No, I did not do the truffle shuffle!
The Goonies' house, the Goondocks!
We filled up the car with gas before leaving town. Well, technically, a young man (wow, I sound old just typing that!) filled the car for us. Oregon and New Jersey are the only two states in the country that forbid non-trained persons from filling up the car. Amazing that I (and I’m sure any readers of this blog) haven’t suffered any injuries due to our lack of training in this area! Visions of the gas fight in Zoolander springs to mind. We also bought four sweet teas for $1 each, for a total of $4. That’s right, no sales tax. I do like that part.
Next up was Cannon Beach about twenty miles from Astoria. Not only because of the gorgeous scenery but also because it too featured prominently in The Goonies. The Fratellis join a race on the beach (which could no longer be filmed due to it being a sanctuary since 1990) and of course the rocks feature prominently in that they match up with the holes in the coin. Much of that was shot in Ecola State Park but I wanted to get closer to Haystack than that so we just went to Cannon Beach.
The town was obviously affluent — tons of pedestrians flitting in and out of upscale shops and walking in front of cars like their money could prevent them being flattened like a pancake. Naturally, we high-tailed it out of the center of town as fast as possible, opting to park a couple miles south and walk the mile back to Haystack.
What’s Haystack? Haystack Rock is a 235 foot sea stack that is connected to the beach at low tide (also forming tidal pools with interesting sealife in them). The locals claim it is the third highest sea stack in the world but there’s apparently no basis to the claim. Regardless, it is a beautiful sight to behold, a cultural touchstone (The Goonies, Kindergarten Cop, and 1941 all filmed scenes with it), and most importantly a sanctuary for sea birds and other animals.
Haystack Rock from the south, Cannon Beach
Sea birds on a rock, Cannon Beach
Another view of Haystack Rock, Cannon Beach
Rocks near Ecola State Park, Oregon
After the pleasant walk (and it really was — partly cloudy, nice breeze, temperatures in the low-60s, and a minimum of complaining from the kids — though Addison was insistent in wanting to swim, despite evidence that it would be very, very cold) we returned to the car and drove a bit looking for lunch. We finally stopped at a little trailer-based place called Woody’s BBQ. I wasn’t expecting much but was blown away by the beef brisket sandwich. It was amazing. Though the potato salad wasn’t anything to write home about, Addison let me finish his “potato planks” — potatoes sliced length-wise, basted with BBQ sauce, and cheddar cheese (not gooey, but practically fried to a hard state) on top. Wow. The town also had a tourist steam engine train that went by; we were amused to see the younger worker sprint out to the tracks holding a “Eat at Woody’s BBQ” sign to bring in customers.
Other than a brief stop at McDonalds we drove the three hours from Woody’s BBQ to just north of Florence without stopping at scenic vistas. It killed me to pass up so many breathtaking scenes — sea stacks with stunted trees sitting in tidal flats, arches, bays with fishing boats, lighthouses, you name it. It was practically taunting me. But my fear was that we would not make Florence before 7 o’clock when the Sea Lion Caves stopped letting people enter the cave. We also passed a huge factory, farm, whatever that made Tillamook Cheese — the cheese that practically every burger, etc. we had eaten from Seattle to Astoria proudly proclaimed was present. Also, just outside the town of Garibaldi we spotted their hillside letter, something we hadn’t seen since our 2010 trip out West.
Garibaldi's hillside letter
Sea Lion Caves, just north of Florence about mid-way up (or down, in our case) Oregon’s coast, boasts the world’s largest sea cave. However that’s a bit sketchy… By length it certainly is, by volume it is not. Still, with three entrances to the sea and the only mainland-based colony of Steller Sea Lions, as well as amazing views of the coast and a lighthouse (that was being renovated when we visited, typical) it didn’t disappoint in the least.
View of lighthouse to the north of Sea Lion Caves
We took the self-guided tour. A short walk down a medium grade then a 200 foot elevator deposited us in the cave overlooking the interior’s two acre water area with several rocks, some with sea lions and birds on them. Way off in the distance could be seen the light from the southern entrance to the cavern. There was a short but interesting six minute film describing the formation, discovery, and wildlife of the cave as well as a sea lion skeleton that was found when the caves were discovered (the humidity and coolness of the cave had preserved it, apparently, though that seems counter-intuitive). We also walked to the north entrance and got a great view of the sea and the lighthouse.
Rock with Steller Sea Lions, Sea Lion Caves, Oregon
Sea Lion Caves interior, two acres of water
After some time we went back up the elevator and took another short walk to a point overlooking the rocks where the sea lions congregate during spring and summer to mate and such. There were hundreds of them, making a fair bit of bellowing noise. The vantage point also offered a decent view further south along Oregon’s coast. Beautiful. Though we didn’t see any other wildlife (whales are seen migrating in the spring and winter, and sometimes even Orcas come to feed on the occasional sea lion) we had a wonderful time.
Looking south from Sea Lion Caves
Outside hangout for Sea Lion Caves' population of Steller Sea Lions
Shortly after 7 o’clock we headed towards Eugene. It was about an hour drive over some hills and along a river or two. Luckily traffic was light and though Eugene tried to trick us with one-way streets and boulevards we managed to find our hotel. Exhausted we decided to just eat at the adjacent Boulevard Grill which was a bit pricey but at least was yummy. Returned to the room and blogged.
Route for Sunday, July 29, 2012