BigWeather's Blog

April 1, 2018

Arrival in St. Lucia

Filed under: Travel — Tags: — BigWeather @ 11:59 pm

[I know it is crazy to be doing an entry on a new trip when I still have to finish last summer’s romp, the honeymoon blog, and haven’t even started New Orleans ’17 nor our Florida trip this past December.  I’ll get to them, someday, but have to strike while the iron is hot on this trip.]

The day before a trip is always crazy hectic, even more so before a trip internationally.  In addition to all of the normal duties like packing, offloading pictures from my cameras, and lining up the pet stuff there are additional worries like ensuring we have all of our medicines, power adapters, currency, etc.  Can’t just run to Walmart or Walgreens in most places to make up for lack of planning.

So, I didn’t go to sleep Saturday night (mostly because I was busy getting ready but also a fear I wouldn’t wake us all up in time to go).  Michelle got a couple of hours and Addison, despite proclaiming he wasn’t going to sleep nor did he need sleep, slept from after dinner until midnight, then woke up and played computer games.  Yeah.

Anyhow, after a mad final dash we headed out at 3:50a.  The flight was at 5:35a, plenty of time, right?  I knew I was perhaps cutting it a little close, but 4a at RDU on Easter morning, surely…

Parking was a breeze, good thing, since the baggage check line was massive.  The security line, likewise, was busy but briskly moved along.  The canine unit in particular was cute, scratching his/her sides along the barrier during a break.  The Wichita State Shockers baseball team was leaving town after playing one of the area schools.  Security didn’t require any de-bagging of electronics nor removal of coats and shoes.  Got to the gate with 10 minutes to spare before boarding.  Whew!

The two hour flight to Miami was uneventful though Addison and my ears hurt a bit.  American did a quick drink service and handed out some Biscoff, a sort of shortbread cookie, that was pretty tasty.  On the way into Miami got an incredible view of Miami Beach.  I need to go there some day!

Miami airport was a bit bigger than RDU.  Managed to grab some breakfast (Michelle a spinach and cheddar omelet, Addison a scrambled egg and bacon sandwich, myself two eggs over medium and bacon).  It was adequate.  Walked to our gate, Addison getting some headphones along the way.  Neat seeing a lot of Caribbean and South American destinations on the departure board that I normally don’t see, similar to seeing Kathmandu when I was India a couple of years ago.

Interesting decorations at Miami International

Interesting decorations at Miami International

Our flight left just before 11a and, again, was uneventful.  Which I guess is a good thing when you are flying.  Jumanji was the in-flight movie, which I watched without earbuds as I had recently seen it.  Addison and Michelle mostly slept, Michelle less so.  Despite it being a four hour flight there was no free lunch service, just a drink (ginger ale for Michelle and I) and more Biscoff.  I mean, we could buy a turkey sandwich for $10, but just that we’re expected to pony up more money after spending $1,100 per ticket (and add on top of that a fee for every bag, the exit row fee, etc.) was downright insulting.  Golden age of flight is long gone.  However, they did the one thing I really, really want them to do — get us to St. Lucia safely.

On approach to St. Lucia we got a really good view of the two distinctive peaks of St. Lucia (though not the highest, that distinction belongs to the volcano at the center of the island), the Pitons.  Also got to see the remarkable blue water and lush trees — palms, banana trees, etc.  Landed at the single-strip airport and got to walk down stairs and across the tarmac to the immigration and customs area.  That’s always an unusual treat, and was a first for Addison.

Approach to St. Lucia's southern airport

Approach to St. Lucia’s southern airport

A rare stair exit onto the tarmac!

A rare stair exit onto the tarmac!

Immigration and customs went smoothly and we were soon disgorged upon the waiting area where our ride to Caille Blanc Villa near Soufriere awaited.  The driver, James, was holding a sign with our name and had a shirt with Caille Blanc on it so that turned out to be easy.  Addison and Michelle rode in the back of the white panel van while I squeezed into the front.

The trip to Caille Blanc took about an hour and was remarkable.  Small fishing villages of brightly painted houses tumbled from the side of the road down ravines to the sea.  Exotic trees and bushes, many awash with color from copious blooms, clung to the steep hillsides.  We passed local bars and restaurants, a high school, and some wooden clap-board churches.  People milled about, talking and visiting, and we saw a man walking up the road holding two foot-and-a-half long tuna by the tail.  James pointed out several fruits and nuts, including cashews, guava, avocado (not yet in season), cocoa, etc.

The roads were interesting.  Nearly devoid of road names and with steep (sometimes crumbling) shoulders and using one lane (particularly for steel plated bridges) where two were needed, we were very glad we didn’t try and rent a car and drive ourselves.  Throughout the route there were small and not-so-small speed bumps as well.  Soufriere in particular had very narrow lanes, hearkening back to its colonial French past.  St. Lucia, after changing colonial ownership many times — seven times French, seven times British, settled on British after Napoleon’s defeat in the early 1800s.  There are two main languages in St. Lucia as a result, English for most business with foreigners and a French-based patois.

Downtown Soufriere, built by the French, in western St. Lucia

Downtown Soufriere, built by the French, in western St. Lucia

The traffic wasn’t too bad but James assured us that since it was Easter Sunday it was uncharacteristically light — and would be the next day as well as that is a holiday.  James pointed out some potential excursions — hiking up Gros Piton, hiking to a vantage point between the Pitons, walking through the botanical gardens and to a waterfall that was featured in the first Superman movie, bathing in mud and washing off in the hot springs of the volcano, and visiting a resort that features chocolate prominently on its menu.

Once through Soufriere we took a hard left and up onto a very rough concrete road that was a little slick from the recent rain.  At times I didn’t think we’d make it up but James handled it expertly.  He pointed to two ruts going off the side of the road, a place where a Jeep had gone off but luckily didn’t plunge all the way down.  We arrived safely at Caille Blanc at about 4p and, once through a gate, introduced to Jeremy, the manager.

The road to Caille Blanc Villa was a bit rough...

The road to Caille Blanc Villa was a bit rough…

Soufriere as seen from the road to Caille Blanc Villa

Soufriere as seen from the road to Caille Blanc Villa

Petit Piton with Gros Piton hiding behind it

Petit Piton with Gros Piton hiding behind it

Simply an amazing, gorgeous place.  Tile floors and patios, an 65′ infinity pool with an edge that cut right below the Pitons, and dark wood throughout.  Our suite, the Pool Suite, had five slatted doors on a track that open to the Pitons directly.  Magnificent!  There were two beds, a king (I think, at least a queen) and a side smaller bed.  Both with mosquito netting, though we didn’t need it at least this first night.  In addition to AC there were five large fans that kept the air moving.  The bathroom was open to the Pitons as well, but behind a painted metal divide and Lucite blocks protected our privacy.

Pool area of Caille Blanc Villa

Pool area of Caille Blanc Villa

View from our room, the Pool Suite

View from our room, the Pool Suite

Looking down the length of the infinity pool at Caille Blanc

Looking down the length of the infinity pool at Caille Blanc

A relaxing, if a bit complex, shower

A relaxing, if a bit complex, shower

Fancy sinks in our bathroom -- and check out that door!

Fancy sinks in our bathroom — and check out that door!

Michelle and Addison relaxing after a long day of travel

Michelle and Addison relaxing after a long day of travel

Another view from our room -- mesmerizing

Another view from our room — mesmerizing

Addison and I spoke at some length with Jeremy about the place, St. Lucia, snorkeling, his family, etc.  Jeremy was recently engaged and looking forward to marriage in December as well as excited about visiting some friends in Houston in July (I warned him about the heat, he laughed).  Jeremy had worked at several of the resorts around the island (including Windjammer Landing and Sandals) but needed to be closer to Soufriere to care for his ailing mother.  At Sandals he assisted the scuba instructors with cleaning up their gear and eventually found himself getting into Scuba and certified for night diving, rescue, etc.

He told us a neat story about his grandfather giving all of his grandchildren a farm animal as a way of teaching responsibility.  Jeremy got a goat, and has since increased his herd to five and is looking to grow larger.  He also raised chickens for eggs but found little money in it so got out of the chicken business.  He also talked about the owners some, and the difficulty in building the villa — most places turned it down but one guy took on the challenge.  The pool alone (and the room beneath it) took three years and tons of concrete.  The Temple Suite contains objects from India and Afghanistan as well.

At about 5p or so I headed back to the room to relax and freshen up, before we headed to dinner under the gazebo at 6p.  Addison and I had steak while Michelle had grilled shrimp.  Accompanying it was rum punch, water, a salad (heavy on tomatoes and cucumbers), rice pilaf, steamed wax beans and carrots, and some small sweet potato-like food.  Dessert was a pineapple cake like thing, tasty — but I was stuffed.  In all a very excellent meal with the darkening sky (gets darker here earlier than at home) and the Pitons as our backdrop.

View from the Pitons beyond the edge of the infinity pool

View from the Pitons beyond the edge of the infinity pool

Staircase entrance to the villa

Staircase entrance to the villa

Poolside at the villa

Poolside at the villa

Gorgeous sunset reflected in the pool

Gorgeous sunset reflected in the pool

Caille Blanc Villa dining area lit up for the evening

Caille Blanc Villa dining area lit up for the evening

Tasty dinner at Caille Blanc!

Tasty dinner at Caille Blanc!

After dinner Michelle and I went swimming while Addison relaxed.  Though the water was a bit chilly we acclimated pretty quickly and had an enjoyable swim.  We could see a dinner cruise boat light up the water as well as smaller sailboats and lights (and music) from Soufriere.  A gentle breeze upped the awesome even more.  Coming in from the pool I got a quick tutorial on the shower from Michelle (it is kind of cool, having a rain shower head, four or so jets, AND a hand sprayer).  Settled in to bed and sleep around 9:30p, utterly exhausted.

Route for Sunday, April 1st, 2018

Route for Sunday, April 1st, 2018

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