We awoke at 8a and were out and about by 10a. After tossing our luggage in the car we walked to Alamo Plaza and visited Kings X Toy Soldiers shop. The gentleman running the store that day was James, a Army recon veteran who served in Iraq around 2008. We talked about the shop and his service, and about two bits of shrapnel that had shredded their vehicle that he was allowed to take home with him (with some amount of dealing with bureaucracy). They had miniatures from every imaginable conflict but a particular focus on the Alamo (of course) and World War II. I wanted a miniature that had significance to the place so chose Charles Henry Clark, a member of the mercenary group New Orleans Greys, who died at the Alamo. Significant because not only was it related to the Alamo but also New Orleans.
Lobby of our hotel, the Hyatt Regency San Antonio Riverwalk
The Alamo display at Kings X Toy Soldiers
Michelle, Genetta, and Addison had already headed out. I eventually caught up with them and we went to Schilo’s Deli, a nearby deli founded in 1917. After a short wait we were seated and enjoyed an excellent brunch. Michelle had breakfast, Genetta couldn’t resist German food so had schnitzel and home fries, Addison had a patty melt with fries and cheese, and I had a breakfast sandwich on a croissant with two pieces of French toast with powdered sugar and cinnamon. We all shared ice cream for dessert — breakfast dessert! — as they were out of apple strudel.
View of the San Antonio River and Riverwalk from a bridge
Monument on the E Commerce Street bridge, San Antonio
Schilo’s Deli in San Antonio
About 1p we made it back to the car and headed south out of town along the Mission Road that links four Spanish missions along the San Antonio River. The fifth mission was located in San Antonio — the Alamo. It’s easy to forget that it was a church with a walled courtyard that made it a great fort. The other four missions were in better shape as they were spared the battle. Surrounded by the suburbs some imagination is required to see them for what they were in the 1700s — islands of Spanish influence in a sea of often hostile (to them) tribes. Tribes that had been displaced by more dominant tribes sought the protection of the missions and worked within them growing crops and helping maintain them. The architecture of each was distinct and remarkable in their own right, with ornate details.
The first mission we visited was Mission Concepcion. It had a large lawn dotted with a few trees and some palms and the remains of the quarry from which much of the stone used to build the mission came from. Two towers rose on either side of the entrance. Inside were some still colorful murals and a quaint church.
Mission Concepcion, just south of San Antonio, built in 1731
Some of the original painted murals survived to this day
Interior of Mission Concepcion’s church
Entrance of Mission Concepcion
Next we headed farther out of town to Mission San Jose, which also housed the headquarters for San Antonio Missions National Historic Park. We browsed the bookstore and, yes, bought a couple of magnets and some postcards for Genetta. The mission itself look a bit like Mission Concepcion but it had only one completed tower. There was an ornate stone carved window unique to this mission. In terms of layout it was similar to the first — a church on one side of a large fortified compound, with storage, lodging, etc. inside the interior wall and room for crops within. As it was so hot we didn’t linger long.
Mission San Jose, built in 1768
Ornate window at Mission San Jose
Example of the interior of a mission’s walls
Interior of Mission San Jose’s church
Entrance to Mission San Jose
The third mission was Mission San Juan Capistrano. It was bright whitewashed with three bells — one positioned over two underneath. Mercifully the sky was threatening and the cloud cover had started to cool us down a bit. The church inside was modest but had a really intricate wooden ceiling.
Mission San Juan Capistrano, built in 1731
Mission San Juan Capistrano’s interior with neat wooden ceiling
Mission San Juan Capistrano doorway
Entrance to Mission San Juan Capistrano
Our last stop was Mission San Francisco De La Espada, Texas’ oldest Spanish colonial mission, established in 1690. The mission had a similar form to Mission San Juan Capistrano but was more exposed brick and not whitewashed at all. It had a pretty courtyard with plenty of flowers and bushes and a quaint well.
Mission San Francisco De La Espada, built in 1690
Entrance to Mission San Francisco De La Espada
Interior of Mission San Francisco De La Espada
About 3p we headed out for Austin, first on I-10 then I-35 to Congress Avenue in Austin to avoid a couple of accidents. We crossed over the Congress Avenue bridge famous for having over a million bats and into downtown where we located our hotel. The parking deck wasn’t ideal — crowded with tight spots with pillars all over. I was able to back us into a spot though and we went to check in. Some interesting folks in the elevator busy keepin’ Austin weird! We relaxed for a few minutes then about 6:30p headed out to nearby Stubb’s BBQ. Michelle had pulled pork and fried okra; Genetta ribs (very tasty), onion rings, and macaroni shells; Addison also had ribs, brisket, and fries; and I had brisket, mashed potatoes, and potato salad. The brisket was great as well.
Austin and the Texas State Capitol
Stubb’s BBQ in Austin
I really dug the sign for Stubb’s
We got back to the room at 8p but Genetta wanted to visit 6th Street and Austin nightlife. We headed out about 9p and stopped first at San Jac Saloon. It (and 6th Street) was pretty empty at first but opened up as the night progressed. Genetta and I went upstairs for a couple of drinks and enjoyed a three-piece band playing covers of fairly mellow music. We could hear the more rocking (and loud) band downstairs as well. By the time we left San Jac it was crowded enough that we had to wade slowly through to get out into the still steamy evening air. We headed to Voodoo Doughnuts and got a bite to eat. Their donuts were like little works of art, one had a pentagram symbol drawn with icing, another was iced up to look like a little voodoo doll with a pretzel stick. The decor was very eclectic. About 12:15a we pushed through the now very crowded street. Music of various genres blasted out of various clubs and some clubs had dancers in their windows. Very bizarre. In addition to the clubs we saw a billiards hall, theater and a bar called “Bat Bar”. Once we got north of 6th Street the neighborhood was a bit rougher at that late hour but we made it back to the hotel safely and went to bed.
San Jac Saloon’s upper floor, a quiet space with a mostly acoustic band
San Jac Saloon’s lower floor, quite a bit more crowded and they play it LOUD
Voodoo Doughnut’s interesting interior
Neat American flag at Voodoo Doughnut
Voodoo Doughnut’s claim to fame is crazy decorated voodoo-themed doughnuts
Voodoo Doughnut’s sign
Austin’s Bat Bar on 6th Street with dancers in the windows
A view into an Austin music spot with a band playing
A music-themed mural in Austin
Route for Friday, July 6th, 2018