BigWeather's Blog

Michelle writes:

Got up very early ~3:30.  We got on a flight to Abu Simbel with a stop in Cairo [ed – should be Aswan, will correct here on out].  Sahar stayed on board until we got to Aswan.  In Abu Simbel, we got on buses to get to the temples.  There were two temples: Temple of Ramses II and the Temple of Queen Nefertari.  When we got there Brian & I bought tickets.  Our guide said he would meet us in front of the temple.  We walked around the mountain.  You could see Lake Nasser.  The water was very pretty.  As you came around the road, you suddenly came upon the temples.  They were truly amazing, imposing, etc.

The first temple was Ramses II.  He is in the mummy room at the Egyptian Museum.  There are 4 giant figures.  One was damaged in an earthquake and the face had fallen off.  All the statues were of Ramses.  Around his feet, and between his legs were statues representing his family.  These are truly amazing temples when you consider that all were moved here when the Aswan Dam was built.  Man made mountains were built to support the statues.  There are 3 halls in the Ramses Temple.  The first one was for the public.  It also had huge statues of Ramses posed like Osiris with his arms crossed.  On the walls, from ceiling to the floor were pictures.  Many were of the gods & Ramses praying to them.  Sahar said that they would build ramps to do the pictures at the top.  The next room was for the priests.  There were decorated store rooms leading off of this hall.  The next hall had 4 statues of gods.  The sun came into this room 2 a year.  On Ramses birthday & his coronation.  Since they moved it, it only shines one day later then before.  The sun never touches the god representing death.  In the Nefertari temple there were only 2 halls.  The first was decorated like the Ramses one.  The second had 1 niche with a statue which had been damaged.  When we left the site we walked thru the mountain where the statues were.  It is huge and hollow inside.  Then we got on the plane & went to Aswan.  In Aswan we got on the boat.  6 other tourist met us there.  4 are from Minnesota & 2 are from Richmond Va.  After lunch ~3:00, we went on a felucca ride.  A felucca is a type of Egyptian sailboat.  It was very tranquil riding on the Nile.  Sahar said that there were no crocodiles in this part of the Nile.  Sahar pointed out sides along the way.  There was graffiti from ancient times.  Elephantine Island had a Club Med, and is a famous old site.  We saw the Hotel Cataract where Agatha Christie wrote Death on the Nile.  We rode the feluccas over to the Aga Khans Mausoleum.  It was way up on the hill.  We climbed up.  Inside was all marble.  The view from the top was beautiful.  We rode the feluccas back.  Brian is not feeling well.  We met with Sahar at 7:30.  There she gave us details about the rest of the trip.  She will handle tipping for the rest of the excursions.  At one we will go by carriages.  Then we had dinner.  Shishkebabs.

Brian writes:

Woke up at 3:30am (ugh!), Michelle at at 4:00am while I checked over our room.  She left her night gown on the bed!!!  I got a small bite of food, we left at 4:30am for airport with Mohammed.  Streets were almost deserted, it was nice.  Passed street with flags of lots of Islamic countries, made it to airport.  Met Sahar’s husband, I’m much taller, contrary to what she says.  Got a 6:00am flight to Aswan.  No leg room, annoying Japanese which in front trying for many moments to back her seat up on top of my knees, unsuccessfully of course.  Michelle puts a stop to that!  At Aswan, Sahar gets off, we go on to Abu Simbel on same Egypt Air flight.  Same stupid [ed – people] in front of me.  Had orange juice & some weird half vanilla ([ed – illegible]) half chocolate pound cake.  Terrain below us marvelous — all sorts of desert mountains, canyons.  Occasionally see a dark black road pierce the desert in a stark line or the beautiful blue-green waters of Lake Nasser, created by the waters behind the High Dam at Aswan.  Amazingly stark & beautiful.  Land at Abu Simbel — small airport.  Leave camera bag, Brenden bag in a nice, A/C room.

Go by Egypt Air bus through Abu Simbel (quaint village with sprinkler-bred trees — it only rains once every five years or so) to the ruins.  As expected, a slew of Bazaar shops in front of entrance gate.  Once inside, meet our guide.  Walk around and down back of prefabricated hill to front of Abu Simbel.  BEAUTIFUL! with Lake Nasser behind and Abu Simbel in front, we were in heaven.  A smaller temple was to the right in its own prefab. hill.

The temple was built by New Kingdom Pharaoh Ramses II.  It originally stood 60m below, but was saved by UNESCO from the rising waters of Lake Nasser.  They cut it into blocks, moved it, reassembled, then built a mountain for it.

The temple’s front has four statues of Ramses II, 2 on each side.  His family in between and beside him.  Other, various statues are about, including dancing baboons on the top, b/c they were thought to worship the sun god (b/c of [ed- illegible]) their excited cries in the morning.  Each statue, 65 ft. high wore a different crown [ed – diagram of the front of the temple].

The second statue from the left has cracked (in an earthquake in ancient times) and the chest on up toppled on the ground.  Go in entry way to Hopostyle (sp?) hall, where there are eight (?) or so statues of Ramses II as Osiris.  You see, the whole purpose of Abu Simbel was for Ramses II to say he is a god.  Osiris was the most popular god, so Osiris [ed – I think I meant Ramses II] represented himself as Osiris with eight pillars of him with hands folded on chest and dark painted eyes [ed – picture of a right eye].  This hall, the Hopostyle hall, was for the public, as they could not go into the other two prayer rooms [ed – diagram of  a hall showing the positions of the eight statues, four on each side of the entry hallway].  On the walls, finally saw engraving of Ramses II on his chariot during the battle of Kadesh [ed – picture of the Pharaoh on the chariot].  Though historically a draw, with neither side wishing to fight and ending the war with the first recorded peace treaty (and Ramses marrying daughter of other king), Ramses wished to depict this as a great victory for him.  It was a cool figure because the horses leap, Pharaoh’s arms, etc. were repeated a couple of times to give a blurring, motion sensation.  NEAT!  Went to the next hall, had King same size of gods, because he is trying to be like a god.  From the first hall, from which the common people prayed, were many cool storerooms.  These storerooms were eerily lit and stretched off the main hall [ed – diagram of storerooms going off of main hall].

Finally, saw the sanctuary, or “Holy of Holies,” where only the high priest (who wears a leopard skin) and pharaoh can go.  It had 4 seated statues.  One of Horus [ed – I wrote “Amon-ke, Hekaton-ke” above this, no idea why — hope it doesn’t summon a mummy!], Hathor, Ramses, and lastly, on the far left Osiris [ed – though I note the “yellow book says Ptah”].  In the old location, on February and October 21st, the Pharaoh’s Birthday & Coronation Day, the sun during sunrise shone all the way down 100’s of feet of halls to illuminate the right three statues — the only statue unilluminated was Osiris, god of the Underworld!  In the new location, the date is the 22nd of Oct. and Feb.  Extraordinary engineering feat!

Next, went outdoors and saw his wife’s, Nefertari’s, tomb.  It had four statues of her in front [ed – picture showing the front].  Inside, lots of references to Hathor, the Earth goddess.  Much smaller, only two rooms.

Finally, went through prefab. mountain.  It was spectacular!  Huge, hollow, concrete, with steel stairs all over.  Could see the temple outlines cased in concrete.  It’s funny, while in the temple you never know the difference!  11:00 = Back to plane, arrive in Aswan at ~12:00pm.  Get on a bus, goes through Aswan’s west bank suburbs — lots of sand.  Crossed the old British dam (1898 – 1902) over the Nile.  Went down into Aswan, boarded boat, MS Queen of Sheba.  Got room 313, our luck!  It is a nice room, with a bath, entry, bedroom, and a sitting area.  It has, unfortunately, two single beds instead of a double bed.  Had lunch 12:30pm, then releaxed (slept) until 3pm.  I was not feeling that well.  At 3pm, went down to the docks to get a felucca ride, all 15 of us.  You see, we picked up 4 from Minnesota — Mike, Sheila, Dan, and ?.  In addition, 2 from Richmond, Va., but really transplanted New Yorkers — Jerry and ?.  With the original nine — Michelle and I, Sharon, Mr. Bob and Pat Hart, [ed – illegible] and Patsy, and Rose and Fred, makes 15.  The felucca was marvelous [ed – crude diagram of a felucca showing rudder, covered area, mast, and keel].  Staffed by Nubians.

Go by felucca past the Old Cataract Hotel, where Agatha Christie wrote Death on the Nile.  Also saw some spectacular Pharaonic graffiti made by quarry workers in ancient times.  Saw Elaphantine Isle, with its Nubian villages and ruins from ancient (particularly Ptolemaic to Roman) times.  This was the town of Sylene (sp?), where Eratosthenes used the shadows (or lack thereof) in the wells here and in Alexandria to calculate the circumference of the Earth.  Landed at a small bazaar right on the west bank of the river nestled among vegetation.  Had twisting streets of mud, shops on all sides.  Dogs laying about, with flies.  Weave through bazaar, start up to Agha Khan Mausoleum.  Spectacular views of city, sand hills, fertile valley, river, and islands.  Can see people with camels.  Long climb up (~15 minutes), no shade.  Pass winter residence of Aga Khan.  Aga Khan died in 1950’s, leader of Pakistan.  42nd shiek of Ismaili Muslim sect.  Got his weight in gold every year for birthday.  His son, Ali Khan, married Rita Haywood and gambled all the wealth away.  Mausoleum marble inside, beautiful, take off shoes inside.  Guard wants baksheesh, but not supposed to ask for it!  Leave, return to boat by felucca.  Rest, eat dinner shish-kabob.  Sleep.

P.S. The felucca fast became my favorite way to travel — it is so peaceful on the river, only the pitter-patter of waves and a very cool breeze snapping the sails [ed – crude drawing of a felucca]!

Michelle writes:

The “salesmen” here can get trying.  We just tried to go for a walk and every 10 feet or so someone tried to get us to take a taxi, take a horse carriage ride, etc.  The pollution here is pretty bad.  But with so many people and cars, what is to be expected?

We left at 9:00 again today.  First we went to the Islamic Museum.  This collection began in 1880’s.  Sahar said that you could see the differences in style due to influences of other cultures.  We saw a portable niche.  This niche must be placed in the direction of Mecca.  We saw some beautiful glass oil lamps.  There was a beautiful saddle.  There was a room of weapons, including arrows.  There were also beautifully done manuscripts.  Then we went to the Ibn Toulon Mosque.  Ibn = son of.  This mosque had the fountain in the middle and was open air.  There was not a room in which to pray.  They prayed outdoors (well under cover).  The mosque had a nice minaret.  Next we walked next door to see the Gayer Anderson House.  This is 2 16th century houses joined by an elevated bridge.

Mashribiyya balconies were where women would sit.  There were rooms here where only women or only men could sit.

There was a crocodile instrument.  The bedrooms were very nice.  The Persian one had inlaid work on all the walls and ceilings.  The chairs were the folding up kind.  Afterwards we went to visit the Coptic churches.  We saw two of them.  One was Al-Muallaka (The Hanging Church) -> it lies suspended across Roman towers that guarded the water entrance to the fortress.  Oh, also at the G-A house, they had a room with birthing chairs.  Back to the church.  The marble pulpit was nice.  It had 7 pairs of columns each different.  They were suppose to represent the disciples and 2 gospels.

Next we went to Aba Serga (Saint Sergius).  This is supposedly where the Holy family lived while Joseph worked at the fortress.  There is a crypt which houses remains of the church where Jesus, Mary, & Joseph supposedly lived.  But the crypt is now under water.

The last place we visited today was Keenest Eliahu (Ben Ezra Synagogue).  This was build in 12th century.  Americans helped to restore it, which set off a discussion between Brian & Mr. Hart.  We got back to the hotel about 1:30.  Mailed post cards.

Brian writes:

Weather: 90’s – Hot

Woke up at 6:15, ate breakfast – croissant and honey, and met the group at 9am.  Went first to the Islamic Museum.  Saw many objects from Islamic times — a fountain like the one in Manial Palace, but smaller (shorter), illuminated books (amazing – gold illuminations on blue – very detailed), swords, shields, and helmets and armor, like chainmail [ed – accompanied by simple illustrations].  Saw lots of inlaid boxes.  Saw a travelling box that used to be used for food, the Islamic leaders have servants who taste everything before the leader does.  Saw beautiful stained glass and the hanging lanterns used by the mosques.  Also saw some very incredibly detailed gold jewelry – gold is considered only for the woman in Islam and many males even today wear silver bands.  Also, many of the early Islamic designed (7th – 10th c.) are only floral or geometric, no animals or people.  Later, animals and people are used.  Also saw a portable niche that could be pointed towards Mecca while traveling.  Saw some gorgeous rugs, and a saddle too.  Saw a compass & astrolabe, and awesome map of the world (ancient).  Saw examples of chandeliers and of wood work.  Sahar said that mosque originally had wood roofs, but during the Mameluk times, when mosques of previous rulers were burned, wood roofs burned too easily.

Next went to Ibn (= son of) Toulon Mosque, not far from the Islamic Museum.  Its plan is like this [ed – map showing a fountain in the middle of a courtyard with a minaret on the side and covered sides].  This one is very old, ~8th c (?).  During Mameluk times one rule was revolted against and went to Ibn Toulon for protection.  They hid him in the minaret, and when the revolution was over he covered the mosque’s roof in wood work for them.  Shortly thereafter, however, the practice was stopped.  This, like the Mohammed Ali Mosque, also had a pulpit and a niche.  The mosque, however, had no separate, indoor prayer area, it is all outdoors, on the left side.  The open courtyard has lots of stones, not a good place to stand if people are pissed at you!  The columns of the mosque were combined four-into one.  A nice mosque, but Mohammed Ali was nicer.

Next went to the adjacent Gayer-Anderson House.  It is two 16th c. Arab houses connected by a suspended walkway.  Beautiful courtyard.  Each room has a theme, exterior mainly sandstone.  Narrow, steep stairs.  There was a room with replicas of Egyptian Antiquities like Nefertiti’s bust in the Berlin Museum.  His bedroom (Anderson’s) was in “Syrian” style – very dark, lots of wood and red curtains – up a flight of stairs.  He also had a Nubian maid who helped him.  Anderson was a [ed – illegible] in the 1800’s or 1900’s and was a painter.  Parts of the house, like the outdoor terrace with big folding tables and chairs, were for men.  Others, like the [ed – illegible] room, were for women.  The women’s rooms had wooden work all over the windows that allowed them to see vaguely what is going on outside without revealing self.  Or, they could also open up little shutters in the woodwork to peep out of on to the street or room below.  People below, however, can only see their eyes.  No big deal [ed – illustration of a wood design window covering with a small open window shutter].  In main entertainment room, women’s chambers on second floor peer in, but are also covered w/ wood work.  In entertainment room, there is the sunken fountain, area for dancers, musicians, then an area for the master of the house’s chair (in a corner) and other couches.  Throughout the house are comfortable window seats and neat shelves in stairways [ed – illustration].  Saw a musical instrument – looked like a carved alligator, but on belly [ed – sorry Mom, I know you hate that word!] were strings.  Clever.  Finally, saw birthing chairs [ed – accompanying top-down diagram with handles pointed out].  Also a candle assembly.  The showers, which is after the birth, is when a name is chosen.  Everyone who wants to submits a name, and lights a candle the last candle to go out is the name chosen.  Eliminates lots of family fights.  All this in a separate room.

Next rode over to Old Cairo, where there was originally a Roman fort.  On the two towers that used to guard the water entrance to the fort, a church was built [ed – illustration of church perched over two towers].  This Coptic church was called the “Hanging Church” b/c it “hung” over the Roman fortress.  In Arabic it is El-Mallaqah (or somesuch).  It was really cool.  You entered, then went down a ramp into a courtyard then into the church itself.  From the church, you could see the remains of the rounded Roman towers below – neat.  The church was beautiful!  Pillared inside, with Coptic cross ([ed – illustration of a Coptic cross]) banners in orange all about.  Had light filtering on from high above, very beautiful.  Pictures of the Saints were all about, and near icon was a painting of the Virgin Mary w/ Jesus and had eyes that followed you around.  They also had 14 (?) pillars, each one a different shade of white in the church.  One was black, however, for Judas.  12 were the apostles, plus 2 gospels.  St. Antorius (?) and St. Peter brought Christianity to Egypt (Aegyptus to the Greeks and Romans) early in the 1st c. A.D.  Then, Christians were heavily prosecuted [ed – should be persecuted].  Finally, after Christianity accepted in Empire, El-Mallaqah built in Roman Times.  Christians in Egypt were called Copts, from Aegyptus, and has nothing to do with their religion, which is Greek Orthodox.  The Coptic seat was in Alexandria a while too.  Later, after the Muslims moved in, they demanded Copts pay higher taxes for “protection” since they are a minority.  Those who cannot pay must convert to Islam or leave the country.  Many Nubians, consequently, are Islamic, as could not afford to pay and were [ed – illegible] converted.  Had pews like other churches.

Next, weaved through twisting alley of Old Cairo to Abu Serga Coptic church.  Fred actually asked “Why don’t they clean up, how can they live with all this dirt?”  I was embarrassed, but he means well.  It really wasn’t that dirty.  The alleys were narrow, no wheeled traffic, about 6 feet across.  Couple story buildings, dirt roads, numbers for houses painted in green on the side of the wall.

Not much to Abu Serga itself, just like any other building in Old Cairo.  In need of repair, was encased in some scaffolding.  Significant because this is where the Holy Family (Mary, Joseph, Jesus) stayed when Jesus was young and they were in exile.  Stayed in a tiny cave beneath the church, which was built afterwards.  Originally could go down to cave, where there is a tiny chapel, but the damming of the Nile has raised the subterranean water level so that the cave, and most of the flight of steps down to it, are submerged.  Still Amazing!

Lastly, went a little farther to Ben Ezra Synagogue.  Ben Ezra was built on the spot where Moses was supposedly found in the river (Nile) floating.  It is beautiful, marble and wood throughout.  The government, though, would only let the synagogue be built if it incorporated Islamic style art, which it does beautifully in its woodwork and geometric designs.  The marble altar, with some of the Ten Commandments reproduced above, stands over an earlier, buried altar where Moses was found.  There are only 120 Jews in all of Egypt, all Embassy workers [ed – Wikipedia says that as of 2016 there are six remaining, all women over 65, I’m assuming in addition to the Embassy workers].  Rest left after wars (1967 & 72).  Our government funded the rebuilding of Ben Ezra which Bob Hart [ed – one of the people in our tour group] argued was stupid.  I argued for historical preservation.

Left Ben Ezra, went back to hotel ~2:00.  Ate.  ~4:00 – attempted to walk across bridge and Gezhira Island [ed – simple map], but had taxi drivers honk, carriage drivers bug us, and finally a guy who seemed to want me to vouch for his entry into U.S.  Yeah, right!  We aborted the mission.  Mailed post cards, had dinner.  Bed ~9:00.