BigWeather's Blog

July 6, 2016

Cats Among the Ruins

Filed under: Travel — Tags: — BigWeather @ 11:59 pm

I awoke at 6a but was not feeling well.  Took some more Pepto hoping that’d do the trick.  We checked out at 7:45a, withdrew some money, and headed to the Cafe Englander.  While Genetta had her normal breakfast I had just water, not wishing to tempt fate.

We walked to Wien Mitte station, a short walk from the cafe.  We caught the CAT (City Airport Train) at 9:06a for 12 euros each.  The ride was fairly quick and uneventful and getting through the airport to our gate was super fast as we had checked in prior to getting on the CAT, leaving us with only the security check.

We hung out in the airport for a while, drinking some bottled water and eating three croissants stuffed with chocolate.  Quite yummy!  We took off about 12:45p and had an uneventful flight.  Snack-wise it was just the hazelnut wafer cookies and Coke but it hit the spot.  We flew over the Adriatic then over the small lakes in the middle of Italy before landing about 2p at FCO.  As we had no luggage we breezed through the airport to the Leonardo Express, the train serving Roma Termini from the airport.

Our Austrian Airlines flight back to Rome

Our Austrian Airlines flight back to Rome

Making the approach to Rome's FCO airport

Making the approach to Rome’s FCO airport

The Leonardo Express, running between FCO and Roma Termini

The Leonardo Express, running between FCO and Roma Termini

As we were unencumbered by luggage we walked to the Hotel Bolivar despite the heat (an unwelcome change from Vienna to be sure).  Checked in to room 102 and relaxed a bit before hitting a few sights.  Of course we couldn’t do that on an empty stomach so we got some gelato; Genetta had tiramisu in a cone while I had coffee in a cup.

In short order we were at Largo di Torre Argentina, a cluster of Roman ruins including four Republican temples and Pompey’s Theater.  It was in the Curia of that theater that Julius Caesar was assassinated.  Also situated at one end was a tower, Torre Argentina, built in 1503.  What made this place very special, however, was that a colony of feral cats had long sought refuge here!

Adorable kitties lounge on steps in Largo di Torre Argentina

Adorable kitties lounge on steps in Largo di Torre Argentina

A kitty seeks shelter from the blistering afternoon sun

A kitty seeks shelter from the blistering afternoon sun

Remains of a circular Republic temple built in 101BC

Remains of a circular Republic temple built in 101BC

Pretty plants at Largo di Torre Argentina

Pretty plants at Largo di Torre Argentina

A cat resting at the base of a tree, enjoying its shade

A cat resting at the base of a tree, enjoying its shade

Temple of Juturna from the 3rd century BC, later rebuilt into a church

Temple of Juturna from the 3rd century BC, later rebuilt into a church

Genetta and I enjoyed wandering the outside of the ruins (as it was normally closed to the public) looking at cats enjoying the shade.  We also went down a small staircase and into a small room where people take care of the cats.  They had a small gift shop where we bought a hand towel, a magnet, and a few other things as well as made a donation.  We also got to pet several of the kitties.  They were absolutely adorable!

Apse of the church built from the Temple of Juturna

Apse of the church built from the Temple of Juturna

Fresco of the church's apse

Fresco of the church’s apse

Another view of the church

Another view of the church

Torre Argentina seen from across the square

Torre Argentina seen from across the square

Standing near the tower, looking back at the temples, including the nearest from the 4th century BC

Standing near the tower, looking back at the temples, including the nearest from the 4th century BC

A closer look at Torre Argentina

A closer look at Torre Argentina

Leaving the cat sanctuary we walked through a charming square with a fountain and on to see a few sights that Genetta had not seen on her earlier visit to Rome with her student friends.  We went by the Marcello Theater and the charming three-column Temple to Apollo Sosiano then looked at some rapids of the Tiber from Pons Fabricius, a Roman Republic bridge from 62BC still standing in its original form.  Amazing!

Fontana delle Tartarughe, Fountain of the Turtles, dating from the Renaissance

Fontana delle Tartarughe, Fountain of the Turtles, dating from the Renaissance

San Nicola in Carcere, built on top of, and within, Roman ruins

San Nicola in Carcere, built on top of, and within, Roman ruins

Temple of Apollo Sosiano near the Theater of Marcellus

Temple of Apollo Sosiano near the Theater of Marcellus

Temple of Apollo Sosiano and some columns

Temple of Apollo Sosiano and some columns

Theater of Marcellus

Theater of Marcellus

Pretty church dome in Rome

Pretty church dome in Rome

Tiber river and Isola Tiberina beyond

Tiber river and Isola Tiberina beyond

Buildings on Isola Tiberina

Buildings on Isola Tiberina

Pons Fabricius, built in 62BC and relatively unchanged since

Pons Fabricius, built in 62BC and relatively unchanged since

Bell tower of Santa Maria in Cosmedin, site of the Mouth of Truth

Bell tower of Santa Maria in Cosmedin, site of the Mouth of Truth

We then headed toward the Forum and through Michelangelo’s plaza, the Campidoglio.  Though flanked by the Capitoline museums (which I did not visit on this trip to Rome — next time!) I found the experience a bit underwhelming, preferring the Roman ruins to Renaissance architecture.  Genetta and I took time to relax and took a ton of photos.  We enjoyed the cool evening air immensely and it was with reluctance that we headed back to the hotel around 7:30p.

View of the Roman Forum looking toward the Colosseum

View of the Roman Forum looking toward the Colosseum

Columns at the Forum

Columns at the Forum

Cool church incorporating ancient Roman columns

Cool church incorporating ancient Roman columns

I couldn't resist this picture of a bird perched on a Saint

I couldn’t resist this picture of a bird perched on a Saint

Looking towards the Colosseum, Antoninus and Faustina Temple on the left

Looking towards the Colosseum, Antoninus and Faustina Temple on the left

Closeup of the Colosseum

Closeup of the Colosseum

Antoninus and Faustina Temple

Antoninus and Faustina Temple

Church in the Roman Forum

Church in the Roman Forum

Replica of a statue of Marcus Aurelius in the Campidoglio, original is in the adjacent museum

Replica of a statue of Marcus Aurelius in the Campidoglio, original is in the adjacent museum

Elevated walkway in the Campidoglio

Elevated walkway in the Campidoglio

Torre delle Milizie looming over the Trajan Market

Torre delle Milizie looming over the Trajan Market

Torre delle Milizie

Torre delle Milizie

I loved the evening sun on the church

I loved the evening sun on the church

A sign advertising an Alphonse Mucha exhibition

A sign advertising an Alphonse Mucha exhibition

View down the road at the Colosseum, note the scaffolding on the right propping up some ruins

View down the road at the Colosseum, note the scaffolding on the right propping up some ruins

Colonna Traiana, Trajan's Column

Colonna Traiana, Trajan’s Column

Detail of soldiers from Trajan's Column

Detail of soldiers from Trajan’s Column

After freshening up we headed to Ristorante Petrucci.  We had the garlic bread for an appetizer.  Genetta had a mushroom and sausage pizza while I had spaghetti all bolognesse.  We shared a still water while Genetta partook in the house white wine (for the last time before heading back to the United States) and finished the meal with tiramisu.

Headed back to the hotel about 9p, packed, and watched Portugal beat Wales 2-0 in Euro 2016.  After Genetta headed to bed I worked on photos a bit before heading out at 11:30p to get a final gelato (cofee and mint chocolate chip — it was wonderful) and ate it while gazing at one of my favorite Roman sights, Torre dell Milizie.  Among all the glorious Roman and Renaissance sights I really fell for that damaged (in a 1348 quake), leaning, missing the top two floors mess of a ruin.  And, yes, I’ll end this blog (well, nearly the end) with yet another picture or two of that.  Headed back to the room around 12a to summarize the day for future blogging and turned in.

...because of course I'd end with the Torre delle Milizie!

…because of course I’d end with the Torre delle Milizie!

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