We awoke bright and early at 6a, packed our luggage, and hauled it downstairs in time to get breakfast right at the 8a opening. After a filling breakfast we checked out. Enrico also helped us with our train schedule for the day, what promised to be the busiest train travel day of the vacation for us. Travel by rail in Italy is pretty easy and fast if you are going up and down the peninsula (say from Venice to Bologna to Florence to Rome to Naples) but going across the peninsula (in today’s case from Riomaggiore to Venice) requires a bit more train-hopping on slower regional routes. Ah, well.
We walked down the steep hill to the train station and were able to get an earlier train than anticipated to La Spezia at 8:56a. After a short ride (about seven minutes) we arrived in La Spezia but as I wasn’t sure we had enough time to make the train to Pisa Central Station we waited for the next one that left about an hour later — giving up all of the gains from getting the early train from Riomaggiore.
Sign at the train station warning of pickpockets
The train from La Spezia to Pisa had those booths like you’d see in the Harry Potter movies on the Hogwarts Express. We shared the booth with a guy lugging a skateboard and this other guy that seemed to always be staring at us. I’d fall asleep and jolt awake and catch him staring. Don’t know what’s up with that. I also was afraid we were in the wrong booth as the booth beyond us (or so I thought) had the seat numbers I thought we were supposed to be in. Addison then pointed out that that was a mirror, haha.
Mountains between La Spezia and Pisa
Once in Pisa we got a regional train to Florence. For regional trains we had to be careful to validate our tickets lest we face a 60 euro fine (each!). Validation is required as the tickets are valid for 2 months from date of purchase rather than a specific time — handy when wanting a more flexible schedule. The train was pretty packed and the three of us had to sit in separate booths. Particularly impressive were mountains on the left (north) side of the train.
Arrived in Florence at 12:40p and got tickets on one of Italy’s fastest trains, the Frecciarossa, for 1:15. Addison and Michelle went and got us all McDonald’s at the station while I stood with the luggage. I grew worried as the time approached 1:05p but they made it back, food in hand, with time to spare. Whew! We settled aboard the train (getting in our assigned seats correctly!) and ate our lunch. I had the McChicken sandwich and was so hungry that it tasted great.
The Frecciarossa (red arrow) is a very cool, fast, and comfy ride and had nice clean windows and padded seats. We went for 2nd class premium (only 5 euros more each). Screens on the train showed how fast the train was going (up to 300kmh, or 200mph). The only issue was going into tunnels, particularly numerous between Florence and Bologna, would cause our ears to pop. The train also made this nifty Star Wars-like laser firing sound when transferring to the high speed track.
Side view of the Frecciarossa, Italy’s high speed train
Front view of the Frecciarossa
Rail yard in Bologna
Countryside in the Po River valley
As we approached Venice (after less than two hours after leaving Florence) a family from New Jersey was being told by a Italian that they weren’t to get off at the first Venice stop (as it is on the mainland) but rather wait for the second one (Venice St. Lucia). They didn’t seem to understand or care, so I helped drive home what they needed to do. Who gets on a train with no idea where they are going?!
Arrived at Venice St. Lucia at 3:20p and bought two day passes (30 euros each, ouch) on the water taxi. We had read that we’d get our money’s worth and we certainly preferred the water taxi to wheeling luggage through Venice. Took the taxi to the Rialto Mercato stop, the closest stop to our hotel, the Hotel Pensione Guerrato. Walking through the market (which was just wrapping up for the day) I saw a neat Venice Vice City-styled shirt. We’d later see an even neater one in Florence and Genetta got one for me, awesome! Found our hotel not far past the market tucked in an alley. In America that’d perhaps be cause for concern but we were quickly discovering that in Italy most every hotel seemed to be tucked away down a side street.
Church across the Grand Canal near St. Lucia train station, Venice
Striped poles in Venice’s Grand Canal
Michelle sighed that the room was on the third floor (well, European second floor) but it was truly beautiful — wooden rafters, a gorgeous glass chandelier, and red-painted walls. It felt very Venetian, at least! They gave us a funky key that we were to leave with the desk and a cute fold-up map of Venice to use on our travels. The building itself was built in the 1400s.
Chandelier in our hotel room
After a short rest we headed out to explore some. Venice is pretty amazing to walk around. Narrow streets (basically alleys) that open up to intimate squares (campo) with people going about their business and socializing. Of course canals also run throughout the city, most are actually quite narrow and not at all like the wide Grand Canal. Little stepped foot bridges span those canals.
Gondolas in the Grand Canal, Venice
Small quiet canal in Venice
An intimate (small) Venetian campo
One of Venice’s narrow streets
Cool tower in one of Venice’s plazas, or campo
Store selling masks in Venice
It seems every campo is anchored by a church
Another shot of a canal
Typical foot bridge that crosses a small canal
We ate at a restaurant that wasn’t that great. We had bruschetta for an appetizer. Michelle had spaghetti and prawns, I had spaghetti alla carbonara, and Addison baked beef steak and fries. That plus two Cokes and two waters and a cover charge (what?) and that the drinks were super expensive (at 4 euros each) made for a pricey affair.
Full if a little lighter in the wallet we headed to San Barnaba church. I had this only list since the movie Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade used it as the exterior for a library (the famous “X marks the spot” quip). Took some pictures and such. Walked back through the streets as the sun was setting. It was really easy to imagine the past when the streets were the scene of intrigue and such as the shadows settled in.
Small canal and a cool looking tower
Venice banners flying from a window
San Barnaba church, used as the library exterior — “X marks the spot!”
Took the water taxi back to Rialto Mercato, passing under the Ponte di Rialto — the Rialto Bridge. It is the oldest of the four bridges that span the Grand Canal and I am sure it is normally quite stunning. However it was under tarp (painted to represent what lay beneath) at the time. That’s not so bad, after all it is important to maintain the landmarks and Trevi Fountain in Rome was absolutely gorgeous as a result of the dedication to maintenance. What was most offensive was that they plastered this gigantic ad of a stupid looking lady taking a selfie. Trust me, I saw waaaaay too many stupid people taking selfies with selfie sticks on this trip already and it was still early!
Venice gondolier on the Grand Canal
More stripey poles, in ever-stylish Wolfpack colors
Ponte di Rialto, covered in tarp and plastered with a hideous ad
Sunset over the Grand Canal
Evening leads to some beautiful lighting — and fewer tourists
I just really liked the tiny foot bridge and the poles
One last sunset picture of the Grand Canal
Got some gelato near our hotel. Michelle had dark chocolate and strawberry, Addison had coffee in a cone, I had coffee in a cup. Ate our gelato on the fish market steps then headed to the hotel and collapsed in sleep.